This research paper is relevant to Indian Apparel manufacturing sector
Guidance: Mr. Jayashantha Perera.
Style Analysis:
Layout Planning/Line Planning/ Line Balancing. Manpower Planning/ Machinery Requirement.
Ø Layout plan/ Line plan has to be prepared by the factory IE for all the styles planned to be loaded in the factory.
Ø Line Plan shows the actual sequence of operations, number of stations for each operations or combination of operations.
Ø This will also show the Marker positions, Iron Table positions, Quality checking positions.
Ø Further keeping in mind the order quantity, delivery date & learning curve, line balancing has to be done.
Ø From line balancing, machines/manpower required for each operation is to be derived. Refer to the
Study Operation Bulletin.
Ø Study the Operation Bulletin prepared by the IE.
Ø Compare & clarify the sequence & machinery/manpower requirement against the planned.
Ø Analyse the operations which can be combined.
Ø Practically try out the folders, attachments, jigs, guides suggested in the
Ø Provide feedback on the same to the IE who has made the
Study PAM Notes.
Ø Study & Analyse the Process Analysis Meeting Note sent by R & D team to understand & forecast the problems that may occur during bulk production.
Ø Proactively derive solution for each of those problems.
Ø Follow the process control instructions given by the R & D team, validate the same after practical application & provide feedback to R & D team.
Ø Follow the machine setting instructions given in the PAM notes, instructions on folders, attachments, jigs, washing instructions & other technical instructions.
Ø Discuss the same with the production team. Always have a back up plan for all the instructions given in the technical report just in case they fail.
Machine Setting Card/Maintenance Card/Preventive Maintenance.
Ø Prepare Machine settings specification sheet for the style to be loaded in the line for every machine & every operation involved in the garment.
Ø Hand it over to mechanic & ask him to analyse & give feedback.
Ø Follow the instructions given in the PAM notes &
Ø Each machine to have the Machine setting card, detailing the SPI, Presser foot, Attachments, Folders, Guides, Jigs and their specification, seam allowance, needle details etc. Record the Settings done on that machine, each and very time with date and time.
Ø The Maintenance card to contain the name of machine, type of machine, make of machine, machine number, details of maintenance done with date and time, details of preventive maintenance done with date and time.
Inline Iron Tables.
Ø It is preferable to have Iron Tables with Vacuum suction as In-line Iron Tables.
Ø Wherever required use right type of Bucks.
Ø The Template used to have the marking of the Patter # with colour code.
Ø In case of multiple patterns (based on shrinkage) along with other details like O.C #. /P.O. # etc.
Attachments/Folders/Guides/Jigs.
Ø Style Analysis should be done before the PP sample and necessary Attachments / Folders / Guides / Jigs – with specification required to be found out and organized well in advance.
Ø These details should be recorded. Refer to OB & PAM notes.
Ø Sewing Allowance guide to be attached to all the Over Lock machines.
Material Handling Equipments.
Ø Where ever required Material Handling Equipments like, Movable Trolleys, Hanging Rails, Movable Clip Hanger rails, Cut parts trolley, Sewing line trolley, Gravity Chutes, Slant Trays, Trays, Telescopic Bars, Bin Trolleys & Bins, Racks, etc to be provided for easy handling and to avoid stains etc.
Ø Maintenance of these Equipments is equally important. Remove the “Thread pieces” from the Wheels of the Trolleys. Clean these equipments at least once in a week to prevent dirt, dust, etc. Oil the moving parts like wheels and take care to see that the spillage of Oil do not spoil the Garments.
Inline Patterns & Templates.
Ø Analyse the style to see where inline patterns & templates can be used.
Ø Record the same & instruct the pattern master to prepare the same.
Ø Practically try the usage of the same in the sampling section.
PP, Size Set, Pilot Run, Mock Run Review.
Ø Practically try out the instructions given in PAM notes &
Ø Record & review the problems faced, alternate solutions derived & provide the feedback to PAM team & IE team.
Ø Review & discuss during the PP meetings conducted for each style.
PP Meetings.
Ø Pre-Production Meeting to be conducted at the Factory with members from Buying Office, Factory Quality section, Head office Quality Department, Cutting section, Sewing section, Finishing section along with Plant Manger and Production Manger.
Ø In the meeting points to be taken care of during bulk production for better productivity and Quality.
Ø Modification in Measurement chart, concession offered by Buyers representative etc to be duly signed by them for further use.
Ø The minutes to be prepared & circulated for future reference.
Job Description & Mock Ups’.
Ø Job description and Mocks to be prepared for each and every operation, including the Marking & In-line Ironing.
Ø Mocks to be prepared by the actual Operator on the machine for that particular operation and the Mock to be approved by the Line Supervisor, Mechanic and Q.A.
Ø Critical operations are to be marked clearly, Seam allowance & SPI to be mentioned, such that due care can be taken during the process of manufacturing.
Ø The job description should contain details like, name of Operation, Machine used, Needle used, Colour & type and ticket number of Thread used. Stitches per Inch, etc.
Turret Pressure Foots.
Ø Study & analyse the garment and determine the operations that can be combined.
Ø Use turret pressure foots on the machines.
Ø Maximum of 3 operations can be done a single machine using turret pressure foot.
Ø Try out these during the sampling stage & demonstrate to the Production Manager, Floor supervisor, Line Supervisor.
Spare Parts Replacements.
Ø The maintenance requires replacement before it issues the required specification spare parts to the factory. Sometimes there are some practical constraints to follow the system. Hence a request has to be made that the replacement would be delivered at a later date. This policy decision has to be taken by the management.
Batch Setting Task Force.
Ø A team comprising of floor incharge, line supervisors, multi skilled operators, sampling supervisors headed by the factory IE to monitor all the batch settings going on in the factory.
Staggered Completion/Step Down.
Ø Some times it is necessary to have a staggered start on the styles planned to be loaded on multiple lines. This is to be done keeping in mind the available cutting & finishing capacities.
Share Operators for pre-identified bottlenecks/ Multi skilled floaters.
Ø Pre-determine the bottleneck operations in the garment
Ø Have additional multiskilled operators in hand.
Ø During batch setting make the multi skilled operators to demonstrate & also help the production of bottleneck operations.
R & D/Sampling/Side feeding units.
Ø Every factory has to have a small line of 20 machines (all type of machines).
Ø The main objective of this unit is R & D, preparing samples, mock run to forecast technical problems, to try out folders, attachments, jigs etc.
Modular batches for short run orders.
Ø It is widely accepted opinion to have different layout & different approach for short run orders.
Ø Modular systems, unit synchro systems are few proved solutions for such short runs.
Short-Jacket - 7-8 days for peak; net loss: 3.5 days
Short-Short - 4-5 days for peak; net loss 2 days
Shirt-Shirt - 2 days for peak; net loss 1 day
Jacket-Pant - 4-5 days for peak; net loss: 2days
Jacket -Jacket - 5-6 days for peak; net loss: 3 days
Pant-Jacket - 7-8 days for peak; net loss: 3.5 days
Pant-Pant - 4-5 days for peak; net loss: 2 days
Incentive Scheme for batch setting.
Ø It is suggested to setup an incentive scheme covering
o Factory Manager
o Production manager
o Industrial Engineer
o Line Supervisor
o Mechanic
o Electrician
Ø Incentive scheme to be devised based on the slab rates for order quantity, change in style
Strategy for Incentive Scheme to be awarded for Reduction in Batch Setting Lead Time
Ø Calculate Total Man Hours Availability of the Factory.
Ø Assimilate Loss time in Man Hours using a base format.
Ø Analyze & Report the Loss time in Man hours for the entire month due to Batch Setting.
Ø Derive % Loss time in Man hours due to Batch Setting against Total Available Man Hours.
Ø Similar data to be calculated on monthly basis, and average % loss time to be derived by Weighted Average Method (WAM).
Ø This result derived by WAM to be used as benchmark standard.
Ø This standard to be reviewed & revised every 6 months.
Ø Every factory has to keep their % loss time due to batch setting with in the bench marked standard to earn incentive.
Ø Reduction in the % Loss time against the benchmarked standard would be the multiplication factor to calculate incentive amount.
